Tawang is a city in the eastern arunachal pradesh , very near to the china border. It is also the district hq of tawang district.
Tawang monestary is 2nd largest buddhist monestary after the potala palace( it is situated in lasha) in the world. This is founded by merak lama lodre gyatso in the 17 th century . This is one of the major attraction in the city of tawang. The outher nearby places to travel are madhuri lake , big buddha statu , jaswant garh, Bumla pass, Jang falls , tawang war memorial (war memorial is for the momoir for the indo-china war in 1962)
How to reach to tawang ? for ILP and outher issues can contact me on shyamsundarsaha.2013@gmail.comHow to get permit for the ILP(inner line permit )?
As it has border with the china and also most of the population in the state are tribal population so for protecting the life style of the tribes and also for the security reason there is ILP. For indian citizen rather than the domicil people of the state ILP is required . I made it in the sumo counter in the tejpur (Bhaktiyar sekh 8638139981).Here they said counter wala . You can made it online with the required documents with the payment of 100 rs in the following website https://arunachalilp.com but it is hectic as there is no proper guidelines to fill up the form . after submitting the application you have to wait , if they approve the application then you need to pay the money online . Then after the ILP will come to your registered mail. When applying you have to give the district name where you want to travel . In online might be only tawang and west kamang districts permission are given .You can also get it from the deputy commissioner office in guwahati , kolkata , tezpur, shhilong , jorhat . From the guwahati airport also you can get the ILP permissions.
How to reach to tawang ?
Air
There is a helipad in lumla which is 35 km from the city of tawang . There is limited helicopter service from the Guwahati to Lumla . I thing it might be expensive but most comfortable journey to the tawang as the roads are poor from the tejpur to the tawang . Here nearest airport is in the tejpur the salonibari airport. From here to tawang also you can book a sumo which will drop you at the tawang city . Tawang from kolkata you have to take flight towards tejpur or Guwahati and then travel to tawang .
Train
Nearest railway station is Balipara but the bigger rail stop is in rangapara . From there you can get direct traine for outher city. this stations are more than 300 km from tawang . From there also you have to take sumo to reach tawang .
Road
Bus is only available upto bomdila from Guwahati from there you have to take sumo to reach to tawang . I take sumo from the tezpur to reach to tawang which take around 13 hour to reach to tawang .
Where to Stay and How to book ?
I have stayed there only two night in the Hotel Center Point . Here charges are less as compared to other hotel which will charge min 1000. You can book hotel there by Booking.com , Yatra.com and makemytrip.com. There is lots of other site but I will prefer booking.com as there in most of the hotel You don’t have to pay advance fees . But still in one time they charge my credit card before booking .
Best time to visit Tawang
I thought best time to visit tawang is except Monsoon (july to september) . Though In winter it goes below freezing temperature . If you don’t love chilled winter then best time is in the autamn (october and November) , Spring (march and April) and summer (may and june). In monsoon there is heavy rainfall pours . Road condition becomes pathetic . You can not move accordingly your plan . Also in this season there might be Landslide also . Summer is also not very hot in the hill towns . So best time to visit is in spring .
Key Points for the City
- Here population is very less and all the shops closed before 8 pm so please return to hotel before that . It is safe city though for any kind of help you don’t find people in the street.
- It is a city with most of the people Buddhist so respect Buddhist culture .
- Here there is no public transport so you have to book taxi to roam around the city . Taxi drivers are good they all charge same .
- Here you can buy tibetain dresses from the market .
Story
Day 1 15th April 2021
I am shyam sundar saha living in Dankuni , a city near to kolkata . I have started my journey on 15th april in the howrah guwahati express on 3:55 PM from the Howrah Junction . The coach was neat and clean – it was a new coach with power shocket in the upper side of the window seat . In the bathroom , electronic flush was introduced and decorum in inside the coach was also very good.
In my section there is one older bengali couple .They are also going to arunachal pradesh for travelling . Now it is covid time , everywhere covid cases are increasing day by day . so we are discussing how should be the covid protocol when we arrive in the guwahati railway station . we also confused how to get the ILP for Arunachal pradesh as day by day and minute by minute rules change in the country. Protocols are different in every states. It might be different protocol when we reach the destination than when we leave our home.
I have taken some food from my home . My mother had made paratha and paneer currey. In the evening I have eat it ,in the night also same food. In the morning I finished the rest . When i travell I prefer to eat as much as home food as it reduces the cost of travel and the food was also hygenic . In the whole train journey I only drink masala tea as my throat condition was not good. I have a heavy cough . I need to drink anything which is hot . I eat also two three packets of chips .
Then I slept . My bed was in middle berth . It was almost nice experience in the night but there was a person who snoring heavily . It disturb the sleep in the night. Every time I go with train there will be something that disturbs your sleep …. this time this people snoring ,another time there was a student group going from howrah to vishakapattnam , all the night they were gossiping …. sometimes in the middle station of the journey someone comes in the midnight and switch on the light for longer time . Railway should have a proper management with this. People should not talk loudly in night and can not switch on main light in night time , there should be night light .Railway should give seats such a way that who comes in the midnight will get seats in those sections so passengers makes the whole night journey will feel min disturbance.
Day 2 16th April 2021
In the next morning I wake up early in the morning and sat in the side of two tier seat . There was a lady , I sat beside her and start to enjoy the scenery of the countryside. It was a green field with mountain in the backside . sometimes the mountain comes very near , sometimes the valley go wider and mountain go far . There was lots of rivers in the way . There was a huge land made of the sediments inside the river making iland like structure. It was very marvelous view when the train goes through bridges over the river . The rivers are huge in size.
Slowly the train reaches to the Kamakhya station , after that comes Guwahati . Here most of the passengers left . I goodbye to the oldder couple . After a long halt the train left for the Guwahati station and reaches to guwahati station at around 10 in the morning . Here we are taken to the covid registration center in the railway complex. Here people were registering their names and addresses and then goes for the covid test . Here both RTPCR and antigen test happens at free of cost . For Antigen test result comes just after 15 minutes and luckily my result is negative so I travel to the city .
Here in guwahati I booked a Hostel . It was quiet a distance from the city centre . From here I take a bus and reached there around 11 o clock . There was a young lady in the reception . In my room there was a two lady and a guy as my roommate. It was a mixed dormetary .Both bathroom and drinking water are in the common area . As a whole nice Hostel . Then I take a bath and rest for sometimes and around 2 o clock prepare for the kamakhya temple visit .
From here I reached to a place which is nearer to the ISBT . From there I take a another bus to reach to the kamakhya temple bus stop . Maruti vans will take you to the hill top where actual kamakhya temple resides . It will charge you just 20 rs for one way journey .Kamakhya is one of the 51 Shaktipeeth of Sati . Here in this temple sati’s vagina dropped . It is one of the most famous temple in Assam and also India . Here sadhus practice Tantra and other black magic rituals .
Now I goes inside the Grabhagriha( inner most part of a temple) of the kamakhya temple . It is very old places with no light and winds . I just goes there and make prayer and comeback . Here was lots of pigeon in the temple. It was a very old temple . After that I come to the foothills of the mountain .
Now I take a bus towards ISBT. There I inquire some car drivers about arunachal pradesh , they said here buses are available for the Bomdila which is inside the arunachal pradesh and also for the tezpur which is border city situated in assam . In the meanwhile I have applied for the ILP of the Arunachal pradesh and from there no response come so I am confused .If I will go to arunachal pradesh or to any outher state in the North east. As buses are available for other states. They said in manipur ILP are available on the border hand to hand .
After that I go to the Paltan Bazar which is in the centre of the city. I went there to spend sometime to see the city culture . Here is the railway station is situated . Here is also the Nepali Mandir Situated. In front of it there is shop for mixture bhujiya . He have different types of bhujiya . He is very jolly person . I eat two types of mixture bhujiya there . It was very tasty .
After that I planed for my hostel , In the way I saw some festival is happening . I asked some shopkeepers , they said it is Bihu festival . Bihu is a assames festival of singing and dancing. After that I spend sometime in the pandal where asamess artist sing song and perform music . It is a mela like situation where is lots of people gathers there. It was a very charming moment .After that in the hostel I goes for sleep . In the night I have a heavy cough , I can’t sleep well .
Day 3 17th April
Today I woke up early in the morning . In the last night there was heavy rain . All the area soaked with water . I am inside the guwahati city, still the morning was very quiet . When I woke up there was nobody awaken . I walk outside the hostel and pranayam(breathing exercise ) in the morning. After that I meet a group in the my Hostel who are going to the Kaziranga forest . They are going in a small car towards that area. Kaziranga was most infamous wild life park to see rihno . I don’t show interest as in the previous trip to the africa I have gone to lots of safaris to see animals .
After that I take a bath and then prepare for today’s journey . After I left the hostel and take tea in the shop outside . Then after I take a bus towards ISBT. My bus was in the 9: 00 AM . It was a assam state transport corporation(ASTC) Bus . In the meantime I take my breakfast with two alu parathas. Hotel staffs were guiding me how to reach to tawang .They have hotels in the Tawang , they asked the direction from there , how to reach there and tell me how to reach there . After giving thanks to them I left the restaurant and get up in the bus for the Tezpur .
The bus left sharp 9 . When It left the bus terminus hardly 4-5 peoples were there . The ticket price was 250 for the 178 km of bus ride . The road was very good as we were going through the NH 27. It takes around 5 hour to reach Tezpur . In the meantime bus stops for the lunch . In the assam lunch are same as Bengali lunch . As being a bengali I don’t face any problem in finding good food . Price is also very cheap here . Like in 50 rs in assam you can have a good veg lunch.
After reaching Tezpur I went to My Hotel “Hotel Hind” . The circumstances are also very dirty outside . The hotel was the budget hotel in the tezpur city . I got it for 600 . Staff are very good here . Very near to the hotel there was a sumo counter where I booked for the ILP and also next day sumo trip to tawang . They take 300 rs for the ILP and 750 for the sumo to tawang . After that I take rest there.
In the evening I travelled the city . The major attraction in the city are the ghats of the bramhaputra river . The major attraction are Ganesha Ghat , Agnigarh, Chitralekha udyan , Mahabhairab Temple , Bamuni hills ect .
I have travelled only two places Ganesh Ghat and Agnigarh . from Agnighar you can see the city and also bhambhaputra river . Agnigarh was a littile mythological places . This fort was made in the hilltop to isolate king bana’s daughter Usha from the Lord Krishna’s grandson Aniruddha . I reached to the top , there is a watch tower . This is the watch tower in the hill top of this area . From here you can see the whole tezpur city and also the brambhaputra valley . I have seen the beautiful sun set there . Here is lots of flower and a small park to play for children. In Agnigarh entry pass is 20 rs . This place is very quiet , staying there for a little time will calm your mind .
After visiting here I walked for the Ganesh Ghat . There is a ganesh temple, a Nag temple and other deity’s temple . Here I eat the same bhujiya and then then rest for an hour in the banks of the river bramhaputra river. some boats were docked in the ghats . But after sunset there was no boating . After that I was planning , where to time pass . Now it is only 6 o clock . In the north east sun rises early and darkness also comes early . Here 5 :30 means dark .
Here I ask a local driver , He tells me to go to Bihu festival … It was a really memorable night . In this whole journey this is the most colorful night . Here I stayed around 3 hours . In assames culture three times Bihu is organised
1 Rongali Bihu – it is most famous and organished in April month
2 Kati Bihu – It is organished in the month of October
3 Magh Bihu – It is observed in the January
Bihu is like traditional singing and Dancing festival of the Assames People . Here different dancing club are performing different folk dance with different flute and Drums to connecting with that .
This is the bihu festival in the village .
Unfortunately I don’t have a photo for that day when bihu was going on , I have a video of the Bihu festival . I spend a wonderful evening and then went to the Hotel and slept . In the next day I have to woke up early as in the next day I have a car towards the Tawang around .
Day 4 – 18th April 2021
I woke up around 4:30 in the morning then prepare for the journey . Nearby this hotel there is a mosque from where the morning prayer’s sound comes . After that I went to the sumo counter and paid the rest of the amount . In the morning he send the ILP copy to my mobile …. here in the ILP only two district were mentioned , they are West kameng and the Tawang . In one car there was 10 passengers. It is too much congested and seat arrangement looks like the following below.
The driver was very nice … He reluctant to overload the car but still the owner forced him to load more in the roof . Here in tawang this cars are also minor mode of transport of the goods . Also people relocate from one place to another by bus and this types of sumo . In the upper bunker there was luggage for the passenger and also there was fruit and vegetables for the upper city .
In the front seat there a lady with her husband and daughter , in the middle seat there was me two ladies and a boy . This ladies were brought stationary goods to sell in their village Market . The front seat couples are relocating from one place to another and in the back seat there was 4 guy . My seat was 5 no. whenever you go that happens , People try to send solo passengers to the backside … here I strongly protested and said if you send me in the back then I will refund my money and not go with the vehicle, then they listen to my word .
Around 6 in the morning the sumo left for the tawang journey . Firstly the road was very smooth but as it climbed the mountain bumpy road comes . In some areas new roads are made by cutting the sides of the hill for making the road wider . It is very hectic process when the mountain is cut by the side then road is totally closed and only after the cutting process over then cars can go . somewhere the stream of water comes in the middle of the road making the drive very difficult and also thick mud make the road slippery. In certain arears are very dangerious as suddenly stone drop from the above mountain … as there have been loose rocks in the mountain which fall when some animal walk through it or having activity there . The sumo make two three stops in the whole journey . Roadsides dhabas are good for taste and also for hygine . I heard some story of mountain where our sumo stopped .Locals said that in the top of the hill there is temple , local people goes there frequently . In long times ago in someday one mama-bhagne(maternal uncle and nephew) were trying to climb the mountain and suddenly thunder spark and fall on them and they become stone statue. From that time there is temple and local people worship the mountain
. In the way comes the sela pass which is one of the heighest mountain road and pass . There is huge lake called sela lake which is very secret to the Tibetan buddhism . This sela pass in 4170 m height . All the year here you can found snow . In the winter time the whole lake become ice . Here I asked the driver to stop . Outside was very cold . The little lady comes outside and play with the ice ball . when you come this types of area then you become natural . I also play there with the girl and then after sometimes comes into the car . Very heavy wind was blowing . This area is totally gurded my military . This is the border of the Tawang and the West Kameng district . In the below picture you can see the sela pass and the sela lake .
When you go by this road suddenly you saw the cloud comes in the way and it is like foggy situation , sometimes in the next mountain you will find it is totally clear weather . In all the roads it is raining . When you see in the trench you see cloud is below to you . In every turn of the road you see a beautiful scene , nature have made for you which will release you from every pain and tell you , “god have made lots for you and loves you and taken care of you ” and tell you to enjoy your life and tell outhers to enjoy their life. I always belive that world is very beautiful and when you feel down you just go outside of the city and see the nature . Nature will give you fresh oxygen in your life and made you rejuvinated . After that the car goes on and around 6 : 30 it reaches to Tawang , It was a chilled cold and also raining . after reaching there I go inside my hotel very hurriedly.
My hotels name is The ‘Hotel Centre Point ‘. Though the hotels floor was made up of wood still it was chilled cold . If you touched the water it was painfull . I order the hotel staff to arrenge hot drinking water for me because I have problem in my throat it was painfull. I also have problem in tonsil. Today I only goes once outside to eat food . The food was ordered previously by our hotel staff . Here there is very few tourist and customer so you have to order food in advance . The lady was nice she served me the food . Here one thing I saw was that every lady tie up their baby in the back upto that time the baby goes to school . She was doing every work with her baby tie up in the back . I heard that this strengthens the bond between baby and mother . After eating I go into the room and slept . There was two heavy blanket , one I put in the bed and with another I covered myself . Still I feel cold . It was zero or negative temperature .
Day 5 19th April 2021
Today I only traveled the Tawang city . Here in this city there is very few people in the road most of the people goes by car here. From my hotel to the tawang monastery it was around 3 km but it was in the top of the city . You can see this monestary from any corner of the city . This are stone made buidlding with the outer wall painted white and the roofs are painted yellow. Here apprentice are stayed to learn buddhist teachings . Roads towards the monastery was very bad , no car can reach there as new concrete roads are building there . Somehow I reached there , There I stayed more than a hour . Outside of the monastery there was a still cliff and in the valley a river was flowing .
Inside the Tawang monastery there was a big buddha statue . There is also a museum . Museum was opened at 8 in the morning . A Buddhist monk come , he opened the gate . It was 10 rs ticket for the museum . Museum was two storied building where most of the pots which used in day to day life then dresses and some scripts are placed . It was small . Then I goes through the outher building . All are looking same . I saw little children who are reading the scripts . They all are wearing red cloths dress – specially made for monk .
Then I go to the DC office . In the way I meet a Tibetan Medicine shop . There I go for medical treatment for my throat problem . Here medicines are made all herbal . They diagnose paitent by the pulse . Doctor was good , He does not charge only medicine he charge . After that I went to DC office for Bumla pass pwermit but he tell to arrange car first . Then I go to market for bumla pass travel. Here main problem is that they asked me to book the whole car which was around 7000 and here sharing travel was very difficult. I also takled with some guy who said me that they might have plan to book for the bumla pass in sharing as some outher guy was telling to go there . After that I reached the hotel for rest . I stayed there for a while and then goes to travel nearby places . In the evening I planned that I will go to Itanagar as the previous guy called me and said that they are not going to the Bumla as the outher guy he said are not going to Bumla . Then I go to some sumo counter for planning to itanagar .
In the evening only thing I saw was Big buddha Statue which also can be seen from any part in the city . After that I take a tea there and eat momo . Momos are not good there . Then after I went to the bazzar again and take the dinner Here After 8 every shop closed . Only that hotel was opened when I reach there . It was 8 : 15 in the night . After taking the dinner I goes to the owner of the Hotel to collect my cloths which I giving for washing . In that time only I made guy who is saying that he is traveling for almost 3 years . He has been a faculty in the CA . He left his job and start travelling as it is his passion . We have a talk for sometime and then he went to his room . It was very good informal interview there. Then after I collect my cloths and returned to my room . Then after I pack all the items as in the next day I will go to Itanagar . In the meantime I called the sumo counter for making two passes for me to the Itanagar and Pasighat . He charged me 500 all total and tell to deliver in the next day morning . Though It does not come in the Morning . It is a another story I will continue in the Itanagar Blog .
